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Elsa Schiaparelli at the V&A: The 1930s Couture Collection

elsa schaparelli v and a museum

Part two of my tour of the Schiaparelli exhibition at the V&A, London. On until 8 November 2026.

In part one I looked at Schiaparelli’s early career and the knitwear designs that launched her. We left her in 1929 with a new investor, M. Khan, and ambitions to become a proper Parisian fashion house.

The timing was not ideal. October 1929 was the Wall Street Crash.

Surviving the Depression

Many fashion houses didn’t make it through the 1930s. Schiaparelli not only survived but grew, and there were four reasons for that.

She had strong contacts in America and Britain, and when people started buying domestically during the financial crisis, she responded by incorporating American and British products into her designs. She licensed her designs into American department stores, making them accessible at a lower price point to an upper-middle-class market. She began selling ready-made items from her own boutiques: scarves, swimwear, pyjamas, perfume, bags. And she concentrated the public-facing, media-facing part of her couture business on extreme luxury pieces that were impossible to ignore.

The last point is the interesting one. While most of the couture money came from well-made, quietly detailed suits and dresses, what got into the newspapers was something else entirely.

This is a tour of the exhibition.

 

And here is a Gallery of images 

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Tags: people making

Comments: 4 (Add)

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Sue Laverack

I love it when designers make their work available to those of us who can't afford to buy the ready made thing from them but have the skill to make our own if we have the pattern. I would imagine that during the depression people desperately needed ways to cheer themselves up and to have nice clothes to wear. If you needed a new outfit and could use the fabric to make something really special you would. And most women would have some embroidery thread or beads, even if it was an old necklace. My mothers oldest sister, who must have been born in the early part of last century, told me that as a schoolgirl she unravelled an old jumper, dyed the wool and knitted it up in a new pattern and how proud she was to have a 'new' and fashionable garment. I suspect that that was about the time Schiaparelli was working.

SnapdragonJane

In reply to Sue Laverack
Thanks Sue; In the Vogue Pattern Books published during WW2 there are instructions for unravelling a jumper and lots of mult coloured patterns to use up oddments.
Linda Hartley

That was really interesting but I think you may have overlooked an aspect of this. There was an army of seamstresses that worked from home, at least in Scotland. My grandmother was one of these, a trained tailor(esse) and kilt maker she spent her whole life from the mid 20s to the 70s in the Scottish Borders making clothes for women who brought her maybe a Vogue or Simplicity pattern, sometimes just a fashion illustration and often the fabric. These were farmer's wives or shop owners in the main and they wanted the latest styles made to fit them or their daughters. She held herself to high standards, understood the fine finishes such clothes needed. She was one of many and most small border towns had seamstresses like her. Sometimes they met up for tea and cakes and I was privileged to be a child playing in the corner at one of these events.

SnapdragonJane

In reply to Linda Hartley
What a picture - your grandmother sounds like exactly the kind of skilled, serious maker that kept whole communities well-dressed for decades. That network of seamstresses is a whole story in itself.
The film is really focused on Schiaparelli's business end - how she structured things to survive the Depression - so the making side of it didn't come into this one. But you're right that the pattern licensing only worked because women like your grandmother existed and knew what to do with them.
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